Ranthambhore

Day1- Tiger anticipation in the morning darkness. Cold, Cold winds blowing through the open canter. Bouncing over jeep terrain, 3 hours of beauty- spotted deer, antelope, peacocks, boar, birds, crocodile. Half way done and the mood is shifting, disappointment. Tracks, some paw prints, a quiet coughing in the brush, as the whole canter full of people holds its breath. No flash of orange and black no growl no peering eyes, just amazing scenery and tiger fever.

Day2 - Suddenly tigers! On the way to the fort. Canters, jeeps, cars blocking the road. Whispers, tiger. Pointing, tiger. Everyone standing, straining, leaning over the rails. It is hard to drink in enough of the sight of a lounging mother after a kill and two young ones tucked in the bush. A flicking tail or languid roll, so hard to see until there's movement. The word is spread, everyone has heard - tigers near the main gate, along the road.

Fran