Pushkar

The temple town that hosts the famous camel fair. It is a full-time carnival even now before the fair, pilgrims, holy men, greedy priests, the limbless and the young tourist crowd from France and Israel. We take a daily walk around the holy lake and shop in the shops that line the way, fending off the beggars, children and agressive sellers of everything. We've been blessed for a price and sprinkled with water from the lake for our karma.

Even with many western tourtists we still seem to be a spectacle. Men shake my hand and say hello... people stare and we say "Namaste". Women touch kari and check out her jewelry and sandals with great curiosity. Thankfully toilet paper, bottled water and books are plentiful here so we are content.

Fran

kali's fodder

sometimes
it is easy to believe in bottled pain
meaning in a breath

sometimes it is on the skin
shame photons
half legal gravity
spinning
sucker fish
and eel swirls

sometimes in the dirtiest corners
frozen to the bowels of conception
the nondescript meets hunger
carbon monoxide
leeches into afternoon
epithets of the sun
explodes throughout the day

the falsified blind believers
and rabble rich
mix in lewd severity
spinning vortex
dust, dirt, splattering grease
feces and fleas

kali's fodder
fatish honeycomb spoil
failed cries of beggars
seditious believers and
a gawking illusion
of those in between
evaporate in mucky greed
in seach of an address

slithering lizard sadhus
morn the limpid waters
the rest
party in the face of folly

city of dogs

often secret lovers
walled limits
places the month
or wound
at the water's edge


narrows led
somewhere
with nothing to give
nothing to learn
just abundance
reminders of opulence
and derogation

dog territory
with too much
repetition of another
other
almost the same
teetering edge

enough for half an arm
and distorted legs
crawling begging
faded half-tones
muted indigos
deaf crimsons
cracked and moldy ochre
reflected decay
in a dialogue of warmth

Young worker who asked to have their photo taken.

So.. we have completely changed our itinerary.

The Camel Camp seemed like a bad idea as kari was having some intestinal upset. So we went directly on to Jaisalmer. It's a very atomospheric smallish city. It is built of golden sandstone and the fort is filled with shops, restaurants and hotels. We stayed outside the fort as this reccomended because of the eco system and water usage in the fort. Our hotel was run by 4 brothers all of whom spoke english but only one could read and write. It was a new place made completely of stone and would have been just great if the open sewer hadn't been just under our window. Their roof top garden and restaurant had a wonderful view of the fort, which is lit up at night and was a terrific place to watch the sunset. The city was small enough to walk most places. We booked then cancelled a camel safari to sleep out in the dunes. Other tourists liked their safari but were freaked out by the sand beetles that were everywhere...

On the advice of the hotel people we headed for Ranakpur and a hotel there that was a "resort" It was very nice and in the middle of nowhere. Very peaceful and not too far from the famous Jain temple and nature preserve area. We ended up in a "Delux" tent, as it was larger and nicer than the room that was available. Delux tents are kind of permanent structures with tiled bathroom/showers attached. Quite nice, electricity, fan, all the comforts. Two (western)guests were having a Hindu wedding ceremony there and we watched some of the colorful festivities, though our waiter assured us that a true Hindu wedding generally goes on for 7 to 10 days as cermonies need to be done to many different gods.

The Jain temple is amazing and huge. The carvings inside are very famous and the structure is reputed to have 1444 carved columns. Much restoration has been done to it and it is now a big pilgrimage site as well.

We got a car to Udaipur this morning and have been walking around the city all afternoon. It is a big tourist town which has a few advantages and many drawbacks! There is alot of great shopping here for crafts and art, also good restaurants and hotels. We have a great room over looking the famous lake here.(We bailed on our original booking as it was a budget hotel that, while adequate, was shabby and had no views at all. Luckily this year's rain has replenished the lake which has been dry for a few years! There are plenty of touts and so far have heard the same story from a couple of them about "being part of group of art students who are going to (fill in the city in the U.S.) and will have an art show there and would you be interested in seeing the exhibit and giving your opinion about the art work"...

After this we will head to the Hippie (hashish) haven of Pushkar...

Spice market in Old City Jodhpur

Meherangarh Fort

heaven or hell

what I need
is not man made bone
titanium cage
generated blue serene
exactitude

nor do I need
involuntary bliss by assumption
from insidious sleek smiles
placing me
in choiceless anatomy

oh hazard and open sewers
is one only give
chance eternity
between
will trimmed grass
where
dainty-eaters
never let others
eat with them
or-
anonymous swine
crouching with
unfriendly fleas


what of the rest?
suspicious water buffalo
and uncommon furors
of tender planets
for the meagerest
shadows?

Mt. Abu Street Shop

Mt. Abu

for another grown still

again,
yesterday stills
another dream organ
endless desert impossibility
imposing
stone default wisdom
magnified to the horrible,
horrendous, and unimaginable

only to be
my own
chocking distortion
commerce comfort zone
a semi-
ready again
for another yesterday
grown still

Jodhpur

A suicidal driver and a winding mountain road where buses and trucks battle with cows and people and cars! We cancelled our train tickets and left Mt Abu in the AM for Jodhpur by taxi. Is this the only place where you can hire a taxi to drive you 5 hours? This driver could not stand having any vehicle in front of him and took all opportunities to pass even on hills and curves. Needless to say it was not relaxing and the car was not air conditioned so after about 9:30 it became a small oven. We survived and finally arrived at Devi Bhawan, a beautiful oasis on the out skirts of Jodhpur.

After resting briefly we decided to plunge into the market and old city. The guide book warned about the market and the touts and they were right. We did make our own way and walked around a fabulous spice market and bracelet making area before we got totally lost near the base of the fort. Kari got some great photos and we could make another album just of the kids (and adults) that ask us to take their photos. The touts are very slick and will strike up conversations but end up taking you somewhere to see something they want you to buy!

Today we went to the big attraction, the Fort. It was amazing. The current descendant of the Maharaja has started a trust to restore and raise money for the buildings. There was a lovely audio tour (a first in India I think) and it is a truly breathtaking place, with views of the city below; the jumble of houses, mostly painted Krishna blue.

We got to see how the Indian bangle bracelets are made, heated gum from some tree! they twirl it and use a wooden block to shape and size them. Kari got a custom one done.

Tomorrow we head to the Camel Camp at Osian. Desert camping Raj style!

Fran

Impromtu guide at step-well in Ahmedabad

this resort moon

this resort moon
stalks our lavishness
calls down the involuntary
only to crash through
an oncoming mental grid

velocity with rock precision
roars past nothing
past a thousand petal laughter
children's caricatures of angels
turned fowl
turned fool
turned carnivorous

a bed
an absent
and how did this
sudden change
from curiosity to aggression
tempt all
with emancipation
and joy-bringing

reviewed by another madness
devouring its own
fabulous song
in scorching heat

Step well at Patan

Alley in Palitana

Hill Top at Palitana

decent of razor

this herculean effort
diminished to radio active atolls
hopelessness and stupidity, raise
for always do we draw, as asses
in golden harness

awake in gushing search
to replace violent insane hunger
with
violent insane hunger

to be sure
I am a forest
under cyanide sky
false and unawakened
in a meadow
of damp
estimated value

So here is the latest.. We are in Mt. Abu, the only hill station in Rajasthan. It is also a pilgramige town as there is a renown cluster of Jain Temples here. There is a man made lake and a wild life preserve as well. There is also plenty of shopping and eating here. Kari is re-doing her wardrobe...

We arrived here after two days in the north of Gujurat where we saw the Surya Temple at Modhera, the amazing step wells in Amedabad and Patan. We stayed at a Heritage Property home stay in Danta with the descendants of the ruler of the area. They have a palace (two actually) and have created a guest house with four rooms. They were wonderful hosts and showed us their stables, dairy, farm and wild life preserve as well as the high school they founded and accompanied us to a fabulous carved sandstone Jain Temple in the area. We arrived at the end of a festival, Dushera, and went with them for the final ceremony at the old palace. It was a terrific time.

Fran

ps.

book request!!!!

while staying in Danta with the Singh family, Maharana MahipendraSingh showed us the school he started with others in the area forchildren, 8-12th grade, they serve over 2000 students. The fee is 5 Rs for a year for each child. The school teaches the basics; science, arts, math and has a physical education program. They also have a computer lab and a library. The library is small, but has about 4-5 book shelves of books. This library also serves the entire community since there is no library for 80 km.

I asked if they would be interested in books, and Maharana Mahipendra Singh said most definitely. We donated what we had been reading, but they could use more, anything would help, or you could send cash... I have a special request for someone to send The People's History of the United States, by Howard Zinn..

thank you
kari

you can send donations to:



Maharana Mahipendra Singh
School library donation
Bhavani Villa
Danta
Bhavangadh
Dsit, Banaskantha
Gujarat -385120
India

from Ahmedabad to Mt. Abu

lo,I am weary of wisdom
weary of 26 blends
from hot to frigid
weary of this rush
to oblivion
selling whatever
you will never
and still
there is more
26 upper respiratory
casualty rates
per hundred

lo, this cup is empty
and it is again
beast of burden
head on
with information
more than fiction

the fall of feet
ringeth to hollow
hooves worn down in silent
does no one know
humans rules
alone they killed
their deities
for a party platter

II
Confession about
hamburgers and hot dogs
wain in shades of race
disguised benevolence
empty rituals
indeed where ever you are
is another more of less
spice and local syntax
choking dog show
will to sell
with one hand to feed the poor
another condemns them as wretched

oh mighty killer of breeds
castor oil of all
nonprofitable to death
let your servants rise up
and never
serve butter and jam

let television ruminations
wake in its
open sewers created by
international repartee

III
where is there
here from
nights torn
slightly smudged
dizzy camps
middle class
from here to the next
squat toilet
first flame then ash
morning chant with
soft serve ice cream
it is wonder land
cell phone photos
jurisprudence religious museums
and public toilets

oh all holy product
just call me immoral
consumer of the perishable
escaping urban insanity
to concentrate on shopping

Some shameless self promotion

please check out the new miPOesias


Edited by: Tom Beckett

12th century Taranga Jain Temple

Taranga Jain Temple is about 12 Km from Danta, Danta is about 175 km from Ahmedabad.

Jain Temple

We've spent the last few days outside the city of Palitana at a great heritage home stay place. The house was built by one of the sons of the ruler of the Palitana area in 1906. His grandaughter and her son are running it as a guest house as a way to make money so that they can restore the whole property. It is outside the city and wonderfully quiet and beautiful. We climbed the steps to the 900 Jain temples. There were 3,000 steps up a mountain! The 2+ hour climb was hard but the descent did in my calf muscles and I've been toddling around and limping for 2 days now...

We had some great experiences talking with people as we went and of course all the children found us fascinating and at one point we had a flock of school kids following us giggling, trying out their english and asking for photos to be taken of them. There were only 2 other Westerners that we encountered there. The next day we returned to the bottom of the climb to look at the temples there and we were scooped up by an older man eager to tell us about Jainism and show us the temples. We ran into a woman who was curious about us and spoke english and we went and had tea and snacks with her while her brother expounded on the spiritual path. They were Jain and had come to stay at the temples for the rainy season, but live in Mumbai. They were incredibly gracious and gave us gifts as well.

This morning we left for Ahmedbad for one night and then on to Patan, Modhera and another hertigage home stay.


fran

Palitana

panic lingers in post modern desire
crumbles in post mortem disarray
list in do not know land
the optical, the oddity, and zoo
flounder in a sea of purpose
in the back seat of useless words
crosswords becomes crossroads
becomes john of the cross
to back alleys and dirt roads
goats and swine
donkeys, peacocks and goats
children in faithful greetings
hello madam
punctuated by giggles
the freaks have come out
to play in flat land

II
stairs to surrender
stairs to unfathomable threshold
a sequence of events
in high heat persistence
logic's double twine tempest
for each next
a thousand eternals
bound in discipline
a plastic version
dead on a hill
a monument to
an attempted escape
diamond eye beacons
endless strides for the faithful
gold crowns for the sky clad

III
o, miserable imagination
take away your loud challenge
surrender to the images before me
the thousand of images before me
and not the hundred suggestions
that mute the present

IV
'aa nnamoo'
because before they could hunt
they could not eat
because
a million souls have never left
rounded blessings
sprouting a bodiless
no longer thee

offering simmering words
a living everything
maybe a little vague
the mountian and the steps are the same
outside
passes a wafting perfect

mumbai

Mahalaxmi moves
in mumbai nights
walks the street
lounges by the sea
weaves animals
in and out
of every second
by dawn
multiplication tables
increase ten fold
the walking
wake the sleeping
wake the dead
in the dust
that seetles
a golden dawn
fish market for millions
spawn the masses
stir the hungry the begging
fast moving traffic
for sale by the dozen
the millions
mumbai by the bay
every light
on the way
to have to not
to die
in full heat
of a crushing crowd
under the weight
of mumbai
that can never be seen
or had

Sassoon Dock - Mumbai

something static no bills
tugging powered milk
mother India
something
silk cotton
the finest cotton
madam blessing
money for your
necklace wallet
comes in
sweet dripping blood
honking
something
ceaseless and familer

Thank you

I leave in four hours for India, a country for all its many faults I feel at home in, especially Auroville, where I will be spending most of my time. With all our worldly possessions in our backpacks (excluding a couple boxes of books), I intend to move to Auroville and live in India. Though Auroville, may have its problems, and one could be easily critical of this place situated in the middle of India, it is still the closest to an ideal as I have ever experienced.

Auroville is based on the writings and guidance of Sri Aurobindo and The Mother . Both of whom present an ideal for a future way of living, and from the individuals I meet in AV, there seems to be a real intention of keeping it alive.

I want to acknowledge all who offered support with their deep love and understanding though this transistion. I also want to thank all you have visited transsubMUTATION in the last couple weeks.

I will resume this blog when I stop for a few days in Mumbai.

kari

from: Bharat jiva

in mornings voice
sustained from death
letters of mercy

courage refuses
forth right in unabsorbed
forms of water
in no reason to stay
already
on a broken path glass
behind infinity panes

the brain freezes
not dependent on pleasure
or on human conception

only kirtan variation
in unmeaning words
a world were real
no change accrues
followed by followings
that follow the followings
on a present plot

and I am hollow again
nibbling on an empty shadow
bound to a thread
bound to you

and or sin

whether that be that that being that being virtue being honor being sin being that that neither deliberates or voluntarily called separate or government whose essential memory produces remedies in space whose essential elements hygiene forgetfulness whose essential elements desire for nerver-the-less believes in certain brackets deciphering slaughter + 30 columns of smoke between value constructs one thought and one thousand pages being one thousand pages because heat and coolness are controlled by swift mechanism strengthened properties that have nothing to do with control over tempo or tempo over control that succeeds like superstition lured into the water half a leg left with an over determined proof pleasure refreshment served cold called never mind any criminal code we have tongues under construction being virtue honor and or sin.

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